Eight Pond Building Mistakes I made

Ok time to admit it. I’m not a professional pond installer, in case there was any doubt. I did build my koi pond myself so I saved a ton of labor costs and was able to modify my plans as I went. But those changes also led to a few mistakes which I have listed here so perhaps you won’t.

1) Used two pieces of liner for upper and lower pond but did not bind them. This has led to leaks behind the waterfall that I did not expect. Water will seek out many paths on the way down. Finding them all is a huge challenge.

2) Relied on old information about filtration. Be careful which resources you use to determine your pond building technique. I initially built my system with a gravel filled bog which had to be removed and replaced with a larger box filter. I now have a nice pile of pea gravel and river rock to do something with.

3) Select the pump based on finished pond, not your dream pond. I originally had hopes of building a 2500 gallon pond but ended up with only about 1800 gallons including what used to be the bog. I bought the pump before I even dug the hole. This is critical for establishing the correct flow rates for nitrification cycle.

4) Curves vs square shape. Once in a while I see queries in my blog about how to make a liner fit a rectangular hole. The answer is lots of folds or very neat ones in the corners. A rounded shape is more natural looking and requires less liner manipulation. Also if you are leaning toward a Japanese Garden style the curved shape is definitely the way to go.

5) Pond placement – I had to build up my pond edges to overcome the water drainage in my yard. You can use the dirt excavated to create an island around your pond but it doesn’t look quite natural. If you must put it in a low spot let the area slope from the high point like a water fall to a few feet past your pond at a low point. This will send excess rain water away from your pond.

6) Not budgeting for the large items like a UV Sterilizer or Filter box. Its hard to justify those larger expenses to your spouse when you already spent a chunk on the pond already. Do your research and plan for your expensive items upfront. You may not be able to add on the deck around the pond either if you have to spend money on upgrades you didn’t plan for.

7) Not anticipating the cost of maintaining the pond. The Mrs. grimaces when I make a trip to the local pond store for “Supplies”. She doesn’t even know about the increased water and electricity costs, or the gas spent on all those trips to the pond store.

8) Poor plumbing planning. Redoing plumbing is not terribly expensive, just time consuming. You can’t run your pumps and filters while waiting for the glue to dry on the new pipes, unless you have a way to bypass them.

I am sure there are more but these are the ones that have a large impact. Feel free to share your mistakes and gloat your successes in the comments.

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Leaks in the waterfall

I decided to do a little investigative work to determine why I lose so much water. I pulled back the stone work on one side and found a wet spot near the base of the falls. After chiseling out a couple of rocks I found the problem. The liner from the veggie filter was cut a little short when joining to the lower pond. so water was flowing back under the liner and out to the sides where the main pond liner caught most of the water.

Note to pond builders: use continuous liner from top to bottom to avoid this problem.

Some water was making it all the way to the right side behind the rocks and was eventually leaching out into the raised bed. So I tore apart the right side of the falls and reset the liner layers such that most of the water coming from the bog filter would be forced to the middle, and any residual water would encounter a barrier on the right from the main pond liner. I built up the area behind the liner.

This seems to have slowed my leaks since I only lost about 1/4 inch overnight, compared to 1 inch loss per night in recent days. I need to finish cementing in the blocks and hopefully can get back to landscaping around the pond and finish burying the plumbing work. Perhaps this fall it will finally be done.

In other pond news:
Water is reaching 80 degrees and I am having difficulty reducing algae once again. Koi Clay does not seem to be doing anything to help, despite all the testimonials that say it does. I guess I still need that 80 watt UV Sterilizer.

I purchased a new dechlorinator this week (PondCare 141G Chlorine and Heavy Metal Neutralizer 32-Ounce). I like this one because it takes less fluid per application so the bottle should last longer. $30 retail or order online by clicking the link for much less.

I also tried a couple of discount water clarifiers to settle some of the debris from the new construction. Neither seemed to work very well.

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Many filters for a pond

Thinking continuously how to filter my pond with the goal of improving water quality I started to really look at what I have. I know I need at least 3 filters, mechanical, biological, and chemical in a closed circulating system.

First there is the leaf basket in the skimmer. This catches some large floating items in the pond like freshly fallen leaves. The holes in the basket do allow some larger 1/4 inch items to get sucked through to the pump. I will call this my first mechanical filter.

The next stop on the plumbing path is the leaf basket on the pump. Any leaves sucked into this via the bottom drain or small items from the skimmer are now collected in this basket which has holes smaller than 1/8th inch. Mechanical filter # 2.

On the discharge side of my pump is my waterco multicyclone prefilter. This separates some of the finer particles that pass through it. So we’ll label this mechanical filter #3.

The water leaves the prefilter and goes to my main filter or my mini pressurized filter (to the jets). Both of these filters have areas for large particle collection areas as well as areas where biological nitrification can occur (mechanical + bio filters #4a and #4b). The large filter has a 5 inch chamber in the bottom where water can circulate before it flows upwards to the filter mats. The pressure filter has the usual pads.

From the large chamber water flows into the Veggie Filter (#5) which also seems to act as a settlement chamber for any particles that slip through the first 4 filters. The hyacinth roots are very fibrous and can trap dirt moving through it. The plants use up some of the nitrites and nitrates which in effect is chemical filtration.

Water then flows over my falls which has a layer of string algae which can also act as a filter using up the nitrogen before water returns to the main pond (Assuming I have not killed it with Algaefix). We’ll call this a weak bio/chemical filter #6.

But all along the path of plumbing and pond walls is a film of bacteria which will help transform the ammonia into nitrites. Rocks and other items in the pond and accessories also provide a hangout for bacteria so we will count these too. Bio film surface filters = #7.

The koi clay I add to the water supposedly absorbs and removes harmful chemical residues so we’ll consider it as a small chemical filter #7a. I have yet to see the miracle of clay in preventing algae but have only been using it for a couple of weeks.

So there it is, my pond has at least 7 filters. How many does yours have? Where along the path of your pond circulation system can you/I add the most filtration for the least cost?

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Dissolved oxygen in a pond and summer heat

I have covered the importance of aeration and the use of an air pump in a pond in previous articles (see tags below). But today I learned a bit more detail that I thought needed sharing.

In light of the last few days of extreme summer heat, it is vital that the pond owner be aware of the oxygen levels in his pond. As water temperatures get over 78 degrees the water can not hold as much oxygen. This can create major problems for fish if you are not aware of the diminished dissolved oxygen levels. Seeing fish gasping at the surface may be the only indicators that a problem exists. The algae in the pond may provide some oxygen during the day but will crash quickly at night. Waterfalls in small ponds, or fresh water streams entering larger ponds can add some natural dissolved oxygen. Artificial aeration from an air pump will be your best bet. Even then a thunderstorm could knock out your pump and air pump and your pond would be left without the new sources of air. Few of us have back up generators for the pond.

Not only do fish need the oxygen but your nitrifying bacteria in your filter need oxygen to process the ammonia and nitrites create by fish waste. If the bacteria die, your pond can become polluted very quickly, which in turn will affect your fish.

Dissolved oxygen test kits can be found for around $50 for simple reagent test kits. Be sure to get one in the 1-12PPM range and not the 1-100PPM range. There are also Pen and Probe meters which are easy to use but are more costly ($300-$500). DO must be greater than 5ppm for fish survival. DO is around 9ppm at 70 degrees. At 90 degrees the most oxygen the water can contain is 7.5ppm and may be much less at night.

For emergency situations where you need to boost Oxygen quickly you can add Hydrogen Peroxide. H2O2 will release its extra oxygen atom. You should add in a non bio-filter or area away from the fish. Add 3% H2O2 at 1QT/1000 Gallons. If you have recently added medications like potassium permanganate it will halt their effectiveness. Keep an eye on PH level also.

Other Notes:
— You can add fresh cooler water (with declorinator) to help boost oxygen but do so at end of day so it doesn’t heat up in the sun.
— Your fish may be more active at higher temperatures and will want to eat more but over feeding them will create more waste. Clean your mechanical filters to keep water flowing effectively through the bio filters and let the bacteria feed.
— On really hot days provide extra shade over the pond.
— Reduce pond plants and/or remove some algae with a water change. Photosynthesis removes some oxygen at night.
— Watch fish behavior. If hanging at top in morning and bottom in afternoon then it may indicate you have low disolved oxygen.
— Add additional spitters, baki-showers, spraybars, or venturis to increase water contact with air. You can even point your jets upward to create a disturbance in the water.

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July 23 Pond Conditions
water temp 76*, Air temp 92*
Ammonia – 0
Nitrite – .1 (nearly zero)
Nitrate – 5(nearly zero)
PH 8.2
water color – Greenish, not clear to bottom.

Adding 2 tsp Koi clay daily to see if it improves water quality as testimonials indicated on web site.
Changing large filter water every other day, @ 120 gallons.
Still leaking 1 inch every day, faster when topped up than when below skimmer level. But skimmer faceplate. does not appear to be leaking, suspect the waterfalls or perhaps a small hole in the lining that I can not see. Will remove cover stones this weekend to investigate further.

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Ponds of Central Park New York City

After spending the afternoon in the natural history museum we wandered through central park and discovered its meandering paths and ponds. The first pond we encountered was the rowboat pond. Tourist can rent rowboats and paddle around this pond at the boathouse (made famous in the movie 27 dresses). This pond was a bit green and does not seem to have any aeration. There is life in the pond. click images for a larger view.

The second pond we encountered was not on the map but was a quaint shaded goldfish pond. It was surrounded by trees and contained a few goldfish about 8 inches long. It was fed via water fall and exited to the rowing pond. A pile of rock in the middle may have contained a filter or air pump at one time. The pond was fairly clear.

The third pond we found was the sailboat pond. Here you can rent the radio controllers and guide the boats around the pond. Who wouldn’t want to have a sailboat pond if they had the room.

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Sailing the big pond

Took a cruise last week on the Carnival Glory from New York to Hallifax and St Johns, Canada. The Atlantic was calm and we had fairly good weather. We spotted a few whales on day 2.

For cruise enthusiasts the Glory is a nice ship with plenty of activity. Time in port is not long enough. Food was mediocre but plentiful. The crew service was very good. Everything not included in the price was about 1.5x what it should be, except for the junk jewelry. Overall a nice trip but not one I am longing to take again.

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Leaving the pond

Soon I will be going on a week long vacation. This is the first time I have left for a week since adding fish to the pond. Since the pond still loses about 1″ a day and it is mid summer I had to enlist the help of a couple of the neighborhood boys to check and refill the pond every day I am gone.
So I typed up a full list of instructions on how to start/stop/prime the pump, empty the leaf basket, dump the prefilter, what to do if a fish ends up in the skimmer (Kimono the Showa likes to hide in there sometimes), and how/where to add water with chlorine eliminator. I overly stressed the importance of not leaving the hose running. I think they understood everything.

But still I will worry while I am gone. Also, when did little boys start charging so much? When I was a a teen I assisted with a rabbit farm and took care of it while the owner was away, for far less than kids expect today.

In other news:
This is the 100th post of this pond journal. I likely need to go back and revise some of my articles with more current thinking. It is amazing what you learn as you gain experience and encounter problems.

I received my first batch of Koi Clay and added it to the water last night. Must remember to dissolve it first. It tends to sink quickly.

The veggie filter is acting much like a secondary settlement chamber after the filter. I am getting a layer of debris settling there. Not sure if it is dead algae or stuff being shed by the plants, or debris missed by the main filter. Fortunately there is a drain and I do have a muck vac. But the pond is much clearer than usual. Just need to let things settle down a bit.

I have been doing some water changes daily before vacation to continue to eliminate bad bacteria. About 200 gallons per day or 1/10th of my pond volume.

Thanks for reading. If you want to leave a funny/scary story about your pond and vacation worries feel free to use the comments.

UPDATE: the fish survived a week without me and a couple of them even look larger to me. There was at least 6 inches of rain every night so the pond stayed relatively full. The water turned green again so I cleaned the filters when I got back. Will continue with 100 Gallon+ water changes for next few days.

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Cost of water changes vs chemical additives

Bingo, the lights are on and somebody is home!!!! I just came to major realization while chatting with my friend Chuck Jones of Wet Pets (KOI Farm in Dahlonega GA). Water changes are the only method for removing harmful bacterias and even blooming algae from your pond. All ponds have some nasty bugs in them. Chuck indicated that everyone he talks to is looking for that magical chemical you can dump in the pond to kill all the stuff we do not want, rather than going with a simple water change and regular cleaning of filters to remove detritus where anaerobic bacteria can build up.

So lets look at cost of Water Change vs Chemicals:

Water
5000 gallons/month (166.7 gallons/day) is roughly 2.5 times my total pond volume. In my local municipality the cost of 5000 gallons of water/month via my irrigation line is $30.17. 990 gallons (33 gallons per day) is a flat rate of $12 + .00453 per gallon for the remaining 4010 gallons (134 gallons/day) is $18.17. I pay the $12 whether I use water or not. 167 gallons per day is about 3.7 inches deep of water in my main pond. I lose about 1″ per day from evaporation, leaks, splashout, and plant respiration. UPDATE – I finally found the leak in my pipes so I now only lose less than 1/4 inch (10 gallons) per day. Filter cleanings are about 200 Gallons per week of water lost.

Regularly used Chemicals
Algaefix – $9.99 small bottle
Melafix (anti bacterial) – $35.99 64oz bottle
Pond Clear (Flocculant) – $14.99
Total: $60.97
Note: you may not add all these chemicals every month so can be about the same when applying over months.

Pros/Cons of water change vs Chemical
– Water cost is about the same or lower than constantly applying chemicals to fight algae, floating debris, and bacteria.
– Water change removes the bacteria stored in settlement chambers and filters.
– Chemicals may not kill bacteria and bacteria may become resistant.
– Water changes reduces stress on nitrifying bacteria, chemicals may kill beneficial bacteria in the filter.
– Chemicals may cloud the water temporarily, water change clears water after particles settle
– New water added still requires a chlorine remover like sodium thisulfate or other products so would have to add in cost of those.
– Algaefix does work on string algae, so won’t completely rule out its use.
– Most flocculants add stress to the bio filter since the settled debris will be transferred to the filter.
– Improved fish health from good clean water will lead to less medication purchases. Unknown is the long term affect on fish with chemical additives.
– Water changes require a waste area to dump the water. Some people claim the dirty pond water is good for garden plants.
– Chemicals will be diluted when new water is added thus lowering their effectiveness. Or worse they may concentrate if evaporation occurs rapidly which may overdose for fish.
– Water changes and filter cleaning in winter may not be much fun. A good system design will help. Fewer chemicals may be needed in winter months.
– Water changes can take up to a couple hours/week. Adding chemicals is quick, but may not be affective right away. I always worry about the fish and check the pond every few hours after adding chemicals.
– Cost of water and water quality may vary greatly by geographic region. Rural pond owners may have to pre-filter water sources.

I am sure there is more to consider, so if you have any thoughts please post a comment.

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Another DIY pond owner in the UK

While surfing the web, doing some research, I found a fellow DIY-er with a small pond who makes his own filters and has some good general advice. I can tell he is a tinkerer just like me. For folks like us it is hard to just let the filters do the work without fiddling and tweaking the pond. So if you are tired of my particular banter, take a look at Jims-pond-blog. Its nice to learn from those who have the experience vs those who merely have something to sell.

Around the pond this week
I reduced the flow rate by merely putting a smaller hole into the filter using a 2″ to 1 1/2″ threaded reducer at the bulk head on the inside of the filter. This will suffice until I can properly plumb a ball valve. The algae is getting bad again so I added some algaefix. This turned the water very cloudy and grey over night and I can not see the fish well. Hopefully the new big filter will capture that dying algae and remove it. I’m still fiddling with the new filter outlets too. I added a 45degree cut pipe below the elbow to block splashing over the back of the veggie filter. water can only splash forward and sideways now. I’m going on vacation for a week soon so perhaps my time away will give the pond time to settle and establish its natural process with out me meddling.

Water conditions 7/11: water temp 74*, Airtemp 85*+, PH 8.3, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .1, Nitrate .1. Added PH Lower to see if I can bring down the PH some.

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