Cost of operating a pond

Posted on October 10, 2012 by esearing

Like all hobbies pond and fish keeping is expensive. Beyond the initial outlay of cash for the pond build and the purchase of fish, there are additional expenses one must consider.

Electricity required to run pumps, UV Sterilizers, Air Pumps, and Lights. Added an average $30/month for me.

Food – Premium koi food is expensive. If you can buy a large bag at the beginning of the season your cost per pound is lower. But if you live in very hot and humid area it may not be feasible to keep the food fresh. Add $25-60/month.

Water changes – Here in the US it is not too bad. I generally run from $12-$20 per month. It will be more if you have a larger pond or do daily filter flushes.

Medication – $50-100 per year assuming you only have minor issues to deal with. There are some basic items you will need to keep on hand like potassium permanganate, fluke meds, ich meds and anti-fungal meds.

Additives – Things like bacteria, algae killers, and chlorine removers can get quite expensive. Adds $20-$50 per month

Equipment items – I replace my filter pads annually which runs a little over $100 per year. Water Test Kits are relatively cheap and once you know how your pond behaves you can get by with just a couple of kits per year.

You will have additional related expenses such as books, magazine subscriptions, club dues, seminars, plants, travel expenses to see other koi/fish, etc. This hobby has all kinds of ways for you to part with your money but also is very personally rewarding. You are caring for living creatures and trying to provide them with the best environment to live in and thrive.

Happy Ponding.

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October 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar

10/3/2012
Water Temp 68*, Air temp 54-78*, pH 7.5, Nitrate 10
lots of rain on 10/1 but pond is clear and stable. leaves are beginning to fall from the bradford pear tree but it has not yet turned its reddish fall tones. Fish colors are starting to brighten with the cooler night temps below 60*.

10/7/2012
Water Temp 68*, Air temp 54-72*, pH 7.5, Nitrate 10
Weekly water change + replaced two pads in the filter. Left old pads in to help migrate bacteria. Visited Wet Pets but didn’t buy any fish.

10/13/2912
Water Temp 66*, Air temp 50-75*, pH 7.5, Nitrate 10
One midweek water change, and usual weekend filter cleaning. not much to clean. The leaves are starting to fall so I expect there will be more frequent dumps of the leaf basket and skimmer. removing older pads since they are falling apart. may see spike in Nitrates and maybe even nitrites.

10/20/2912
Water Temp 62*, Air temp 50-72*, pH 7.5, Nitrate 5
One mid-week water change, ususal filter clean, and extra cleaning from bottom of skimmer. Filter pads were relatively clean. Stirred up skimmer and pumped out the dirty water to waste, and scooped out a good bit of muck. Feeding only about once a day and the fish are not eating as voraciously. Suspect lower Nitrate is due to less feeding.

10/27/2912
Water Temp 66*, Air temp 50-72*, pH 7.4, Nitrate 5-10
Unusually warm week for october. Normal weekly clean and one mid-week water change. Added the winter cover framework in case it gets cold soon.

Expenses:
water bill $14.82 1,580 gallons
Filter pads(2) – $63.00

Posted on October 3, 2012 by esearing | Comments Off on October 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar

Shinju Koi Food

Posted on September 2, 2012 by esearing

9/2/2012 – Trying a new Koi food; Shinju White Pearl – Premium All Season. supposedly gives stronger whites and leaves little waste (similar to Hikari I have been using). It sells for $90 (local retail with tax) for an 8lb bag which is a little cheaper than Hikari. The fish seem to eat it quicker than the Hikari. I will report later if I see any improvement in skin.

Update 9/25 – There is a noticeable difference of whites in my Showas and Sanke. Not dramatic and the heads are still beige or silvery on my other fish. I expect cooler weather will bring out other colors so whites may stand out more then too. Waste has been minimal.

Per website (www.shinjukoifood.com):

This Koi food is the perfect recipe for any time of Koi season (above 50 F)
Shinju Koi Food White Pearl will promote beautiful and healthy growth for your Koi .
Fresh wheat germ in White Pearl will not only keep your Koi’s skin lustrous but also very white.
Due to the use of very high quality ingredients, the food is digested and absorbed very efficiently and it leaves very little wastes in your pond and least burden to your filter. This means your water stays clean.

Crude Protein 38% (min)
Calcium 1.5% (min)
Fat 3% (min)
Phosphorus 1.5%(min)
Ash 11%(max)
Fiber 3%(max)

Ingredients:
White Fish Meal, Wheat Flour, Defatted Soybean Meal, Defatted Wheat Germ Meal, Dried Brewers Yeast, Mono Dicalcium Phosphate, Vitamin A, Vitamin D3, Vitamin E, Vitamin K, Thiamine Mononitrate, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Niacin, Biotin, Choline Chloride, Vitamin C, Inositol, Folic Acid, Calcium Pantothenat e, Cyanocobalamine, P-Aminobenonic Acid, Manganese Sulfate, Iron Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Cobalt Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Calcium Iodate, Magnesium Sulfate, Disodium Hydrogen Phosphate, Potassium Dihydrogen Phosphate.

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September 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar

9/2/2012
watertemp 76* air temp 70-90*, pH 7.4(early), Nitrate 10
Weekly water change 15% and filter clean. Made a DIY air diffuser out of 3’x1″ PVC and replaced the small diffuser I was using. It runs most of the length of the filter box and sends a stream of bubbles through the matting. Fish look healthy overall.

9/8/2012
watertemp 76*, air temp 70-80*, pH 7.4, Ammonia/Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20
Weekly filter clean and 200Gallon water change. thinned hyacinth. Added more microbelift PL

9/12/2012
watertemp 70*, pH 7.4, Nitrate 20.
water change 150 gallons, water is clear fish look healthy. Noticed asagi is getting some silvery spots. Wonder if the new food is bring out more whites? Water is cooling so expect to see some changes in color over next few weeks.

9/15/2012
air temp 70-85*, pH 7.5, Nitrate 5-10.
Finally Nitrites are coming down. Performed 4 filter dumps this week which is about 500Gallons. Saturday clean out was much easier with little debris. there were some frogs living in the skimmer however. Shinju food seems to have even less waste than the Hikari or else it is so fine it does not collect in the filters.

9/22/2012
water temp 70*, air temp 55-85*, pH 7.5, Nitrate 10-20.
Little maintenance during week due to busy schedule. Clean out was not too bad. Did double filter dump.
Feed has remained between 1/2 to 3/4 cup of food daily. Fish are looking health and whites are getting brighter. Head areas that could be white are still dull. Hyacinths in tub bloomed but those in the veggie filter still have not bloomed.

9/29/2012
water temp 72*, air temp 60-85*, pH 7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10.
Weekly water change and filter clean as usual. Only one mid week dump. I have a slow leak somewhere about 20 gallons a day.Reduced hyacinth in veggie filter in case water is bouncing off of the leaves or if crowding is causing water to rise in the filter and overflow slightly. Added Microbelift PL maintenance dose.

Expenses
Microbelift PL $35
Water bill $15 1750 gallons

Posted on September 2, 2012 by esearing | 3 Comments

API Test Kits Review

Posted on August 11, 2012 by esearing

To monitor the Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrates in my pond I have used a couple of different kits. I have even used the test strips but found they were not informative enough to really know what was going on. I have found the API brand readily available and generally easy to use. It is only slightly more expensive to buy the kits individually than to buy a multiple tests kit. The multi test kits may have items you don’t need like pH test kits if you already have a pH meter. The individual kits seem to last longer too and you don’t have to worry about running out of one test before the others. One other thing I like about the API kits is that the color separation between various levels of Ammonia/Nitrogen are more distinct than other kits. There is less guess work between zero, and differing levels.

Ammonia test kit
Comes with test tube and two bottles of reagent. Merely fill the test tube to the line (5mm) and put 8 drops of each solution, then shake well. After 2-3 minutes the full color will develop and you can match it against the water proof color card for salt or fresh water. Dual use test kit for aquarium or pond. Color card is Yellow for zero, green for .25, the blues for higher levels.

Nitrite test kit
Comes with test tube and one bottle of reagent. Add water to line, add 5 drops of solution. Shake and wait. Match color of liquid to the colors on the included cards.


Nitrate test kit
Comes with test tube and two bottles of reagent. Add water to line, add 10 drops of each solution. Shake and wait. Match color of liquid to the colors on the included cards. Bottle #2 requires shaking/mixing well before adding and instructions indicate the two reagents should be vigorously mixed in the test tube.

The importance of using these products is that the pond owner can monitor the ammonia and nitrogen levels in the pond and help maintain healthy water for the fish. Kh/GH, phostphate, chlorine/Cloramine and other water tests are also available.

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Microbe-Lift PL review

Posted on August 8, 2012 by esearing

Since I gave the Buffer a bad review I thought it only proper to also review the product suggested by Mark Krupka: Microbe-Lift PL.

“Denitrification is the reduction of nitrate to nitrogen gas, and an excellent way of removing nitrogen from your pond. (For people who have trouble denitrifying, there is an excellent denitrifier in MICROBE-LIFT PL.)” –Mark Krupka

So I have added it at a higher dosage than recommended over a few weeks and it seems to be working at keeping Nitrites/Nitrates at near zero. I also performed a 50% water change by accident before adding it and have done 5-10% changes every few days since.

My Nitrite test kit is showing a slightly blue color which is bluer than the teal green of zero, but certainly not the purple color of .25 ppm. Nitrates and Ammonia are zero on the test kits. Since there have been no other additives other than koi clay I feel confident that the Microbe-lift PL is doing most of the de-nitrification. It does appear to be reducing the amount of dead algae and sludge in my skimmer and box filter. Looking back over the last year’s pond conditions and other posts, I used this product most often plus the PondCare dechlorinator which also has an ammonia remover. I have been using the dechlorinator without ammonia remover most of this summer. I also moved the air system to the box filter which may be helping too.

The product is a bit expensive running $32-35 at my local pond shops for 32 oz size. But it should work for several months per the manufacturers website.

From the Microbe-lift website:

Specially Formulated for Decorative Fish Ponds, Lagoons & Smaller Water Features
Creates a cleaner environment for your pond, promoting faster fish growth
Reduces ammonia nitrogen levels
Dissolves away organic sludge
Seeds and maintains biological filters
Significantly reduces noxious odors caused by dead algae, fish fecal matter, and urine
Reduces hydrogen sulfide, which creates strong, offensive odors
Reduces biological oxygen demand (B.O.D.)
Reduces buildup of bird droppings, fish feed and dead leaves
Breaks down dead algae
Improves dissolved oxygen levels
Contains photosynthetic bacteria which reduces cloudy water by promoting flocculation and settling of organic and inorganic particles
Effective over a wide range of pH conditions

32 oz. (10PLQ) Treats 500 gal. pond for 11 months or 1,000 gal. pond for 8 months.

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August 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar

8/2/2012
water temp 82*, air temp 75-93*, pH 7.5, Nitrite 0-.25
I turned off the UV a couple of weeks ago and the pond is still relatively clear. There is some string algae and much of the algae growing on the walls. My pH as stabilized around 7.4-7.5. Nitrites are still existent but very low. I dumped in a double dose of Microbe Lift PL bacteria and did a massive water change by accident. Not sure which was more beneficial or if they are working in combination. Last few days have been hot and dry with only 1 day of rain. Performed mid week filter cleaning and replaced about 200 gallons. Moved air from pond to filter to see what happens. May need second air pump or split the air in two lines.

8/4/2012
Water temp 76*, air Temp 74-91*, pH 7.4(morning), Nitrite 0
No Nitrites after weekend filter clean and adding air to the filter. Matala green matting was packed with poo and bio waste. Was a nasty cleanout. Water change around 10%. Fish are doing well but have somewhat reduced color in the hot temps. Still adding 3tbls of koi clay every few days. Water hyacinth are growing beyond the veggie filter and are working their way toward the falls. No blooms yet.

8/7/2012
Water temp 78*, air Temp 74-88*, pH 7.6 (evening), Nitrite 0
water slightly cloudy green but still able to see fish and bottom. Reduced feeding last few days due to busy schedule.

8/10/2012
Water temp 75*, air temp 72-85*, pH 7.4 (morn), Nitrite 0, Nitrate 40**
Purchased new Nitrate test kit and it is showing nitrates, where my old kit was reading 5.
Weekly filter clean and water change of 15%. Some rain the last few days helping too. Switched back to Pondcare declorinator with stresscoat and ammonia remover. Will monitor Nitrites and Nitrates next few days. Feeding twice a day to help fatten up fish for cooler weather while temps are not as hot.

8/14/2012
air-temp 70-90*, pH 7.4(eve), Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20-40.

8/18/2012
weekly water change and filter clean, double dump. Nitrates creeping up again. Thinning out the hyacith and feeding it to the fish may be increasing ammonia output.

8/21/2012
Air temp 68-88*, pH 7.7(eve), Nitrates 20
Nitrates are coming down finally likely due to reduced feeding.

8/24/2012
water temp 74*, airtemp 68-87*, pH 7.5, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 20-40.
Water is turning green and cloudy. some rain last night. Only one filter dump this week.
UV has been off for several weeks.

8/29/2012
airtemp 70-85*, pH 7.5, Nitrite 0, Nitrates 10-20.
Turned UV back on to reduce green water. Did 2 mid week dumps so far.

Expenses
Nitrate test kit $9
Pondcare declorinator $23
water bill $19 – Some water used for gardening and by painters.
Shinju food – $90. 2 months supply.

Posted on August 4, 2012 by esearing | Comments Off on August 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar

Microbe-Lift 7.5 pH Buffer Stabilizer Review

Posted on July 15, 2012 by esearing

This week I tested Ecological Labs Microbe-Lift 7.5 pH Buffer Stabilizer to determine if it would stabilize my pH at 7.5. It did not. My pond continues to fall below 7.5 at both morning and night. The goal is to keep my ph at 7.5 or above so that nitrifying bacteria can reduce my nitrites. This product may work in some ponds but not in mine.

I have 1600 gallons with 8 medium koi. Water changes 15-20% per week.
Added 2 lbs per instructions.
pH rose above 7.5 initially and has fallen as low as 7.2 1 week later.
This would be my normal pond behavior so buffering has no effect.
Only other chemical used was Chlorine remover when adding water from mains.
Only 1 filter cleaning performed during this time.

I would call this product a failure. If you have had luck with this product please let me know your particulars.

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July 2012 Pond Conditions

7/4/2012
water temp 78*, air temp 75-98*, pH7.8, Ammonia .25, Nitrite .8, Nitrate 10
Went on vacation for a few days and about 24 hours before I returned my fish sitters were unable to restart the pump after emptying the leaf basket. Fortunately there was air running in the pond. So without the circulation the Ammonia and Nitrite spiked up again. Added some old matting back for extra surface area to help nitrification. changed ~200 gallons.

7/6/2012
water temp 80*, air temp 75-100*, pH7.8, Ammonia < .25, Nitrite .8, Nitrate 10
Ammonia coming down but not yet gone. Have reduced feeding

7/7/2012
Monthly Potassium Permanganate treatment. 11 grams in filter with media removed turned brown in less than 1/2 hour. Added 5 grams more which lasted couple of hours. Veggie filter likely took most of the power away in the first round since it tends to build up debris. The veggie filter is where I suspect most nasties would live anyway since it has a few areas where stagnant water can occur. water change 150 gallons before treatment, 150 gallons after.

7/8/2012
water temp 78-80*, air temp 75-95*, pH 7.8, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .3, Nitrate 10

7/11/2012
Water temp 76*, air temp 75-90*, pH 7.5
Water and air cooler this week due to rain. Added pH 7.5 buffer to the pond to see if I can keep it from dropping below 7.5.

7/12/2012
Water temp 76*, air temp 75-90*, pH 7.3, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .1, Nitrate 5
Pond conditions improving, may be due to rain changing out 50-100 gallons daily. Water is clear. PH Buffer doesn’t seem to be working or I may need to recalibrate my meter again. Need to buy some ph 7.0 testing solution.

7/14/2012
pH 7.3, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .3, Nitrate 10
weekly clean out of filter.Did not do mid week dumps due to rains but should have. Lots of poo.

07/19/2012
pond temp 76-78*, 75-95*, pH 7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite .3
Adding baking soda to water daily to push up pH after it fell to 7.0. Searching for real crushed coral or oyster shells. filter dump every other day. May try microbe-lift PL bacteria to see if I can reduce nitrates. Supposedly contains a de-nitrifier.

07/21/2012
pond temp 76*, air temp 78*, pH 7.4, Ammonia 0, Nitrite < .3 Added Microbelift PL yesterday. Seeing reduced Nitrite.Normal filter cleaning shows brown heavy gunk below pads while water remains clear. Have had UV light off for about 5 days and water is only slightly murky green. Getting lots of rain. 07/23/2012 OOPS. left the water on for a long while and likely added and overflowed 50% or more. Good news is my nitrites are now zero. Added more microlift PL. If nitrites stay at zero then I will credit it with eliminating my nitrites. If not, won't buy it again. 07/27/2012 water temp 82*, airtemp 78-97*, pH 7.5, Ammonia 0, Nitrite < .25 Getting some nitrite readings but they appear to be very low finally. Feeding less due to heat. Did small filter clean on Wednesday but pond is beginning to green up in the hot weather. Adding clay every couple of days too. Will add more air to filter this weekend. Expenses Fish sitters: $30 Saki Hikari Growth Food - $56 pH Buffer 7.5 16oz - $18 (waste of money) pH 7.0 calibration solution - $10 Nitrite test kit $9 Microbe Lift PL - $35

Posted on July 4, 2012 by esearing | Comments Off on July 2012 Pond Conditions Calendar

Using baking soda to adjust pond pH

Posted on June 25, 2012 by esearing

If you are reading this you are probably experiencing the dreaded pH drop most of us fish keeper see sooner or later. My pH has been steadily declining this summer and my water hardness is almost zero. Most koi sites will recommend a pH around 7.5 which is where the fish are happy and the nitrifying bacteria will also thrive. While there are several products on the market to raise and lower pH, one of the most effective and least expensive is baking soda. Baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, can move a ponds pH to 8.4 and help keep it there. Or it can be used in an emergency to raise pH back above 7.0 incase of emergency or lower it to 8.4 if replacement water source pH is suddenly high.

Dosage
If you are merely trying to raise your pond pH back above 7.0, use a fresh box of baking soda at 1/4 cup/1000 gallons, once every 24 hours. I personally have exceed this at 2/3rds cup/1000 gallons and my ph jumped from 7.0 to 7.8 in just a few minutes, but it is probably a little stressful for the fish. Monitor daily for the next few days.

Several manufacturers make buffers you can add to your pond to keep the pH at 7.5, or even 7.0 if you prefer. My first trial of these products was a failure. pH continued to drop. So if you use one of these, continue to check your pH regularly. Also let me know which brand worked for you.

Caveats

You should test your ammonia before pushing pH higher. Ammonia becomes more toxic as pH increases. You can use an ammonia remover if needed before treatment, or just go slower increasing the pH over several days by using less baking soda. There are some who claim baking soda has an unwanted effect on koi skin quality. Using a chemical to increase pH also does not address the issues that caused the pH to drop in the first place. Baking soda is a temporary fix. Be sure to check your water hardness which will help stabilize your pH. Clean your filters too if you do not do it routinely.

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