More pond makeovers

I took a couple of days off of work so I could finish my pond makeover before the cold weather sets in.
I trenched the intake pipes and reduced the two pipes to one going into the pump. I also extended the length of pipe before the pump to reduce cavitation. The pipes from the skimmer and bottom drain now merge at the skimmer into a 3 way Jandy valve. I can shut off the skimmer easily while feeding. they are buried now except for a few feet near the pump. Budget $60 for the Jandy valve and about $10 in a few new pvc fittings.

I also did some landscaping adding 2 new Azaleas at the base of the retaining wall, Plus some seasonal mums to begin filling in the bed next to the pond. I covered the upper planter bed with some new pine bark mulch. Added some pea gravel around the pump so I’m not standing in mud when it rains. And filled in the pine straw where it needed refreshing. Budget $60 for 6 bags of mulch, 1 bag soil amendment, 3 mums, 2 azaleas.

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Pond leaks – Unusual fix

I had been losing up to 1 inch of water every day during the summer. I tried fixing all the usual problems of liner folds, ground water, splash out, and pipe leaks. Then I did two things differently and the water loss is now less than 1/4 inch per day which could be natural evaporation and plant expiration.

1) I pulled back the hyacinth in my veggie filter a few inches from the edge of the filter at the water fall. This reduced the height of the water in the filter by 1/2 inch. Apparently the thick roots were damming up the flow which would allow water to be siphoned off through liner folds.

2) I fed some of the hyacinth to the koi. As they ate the hyacinth its plant parts were shredded and some parts even became a gelatinous film. I suspect that some of this plant material migrated to an unknown hole and is plugging it. I know it stopped up my leaf basket fairly well. I can only hope that this natural patch will continue to prevent the leak. If you don’t have fish to shred your hyacinth, put it in a blender with some pond water and dump it back in the pond. I had once read you could do the same by adding cat litter. Supposedly the cat litter will migrate to a leak point and swell and become hard over time. I wouldn’t recommend cat litter in a koi pond but it may work for a water garden without fish.

3 – maybe) In doing recent pipe changes I noticed the bio film on the pipes was much greater than previous cuts. It could also be that bacteria are plugging some of the piping’s minute leaks. Cooler temperatures may be playing a role here too as the pipes and fittings can shrink.

I can’t guarantee this will work for you. Here is a link to one of may earlier articles for other causes you may want to explore: Water Loss – Where does it go?

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Plumbing failure and repair

I used a knife valve for my skimmer line to shut off the skimmer during feeding and maintenance. Today I pushed the lever down and the casing broke apart near the top. I was able to push the knife section down into the pipe so it blocked the pipe and no water leaked. Since this is on the intake side of the pump there is little pressure, but I did have to turn the skimmer pipe upward so water would not flow into the broken valve.

After dinner I headed to the home repair chain and of course they did not have a knife valve to replace it. I did find a nice ball valve which had a union on one side. It also had a large handle for opening and closing and was easier to turn than other ball valves. Since the ends were a slip fit I purchased two female threaded connectors and male connectors to go where the knife valve and prior unions fit. Surprisingly the old assembly(Knife+spacer+male+union) is about the same width as the male+female+ball+female assembly.

I unscrewed the old union and cut off the knife valve. then glued a male threaded connector onto the cut pipe. Then just threaded the male connectors to the female connectors on the new ball valve so that it can all be disassembled later when I redo that section of pipe. I have learned that unions and threaded connections save a lot of headaches when pipes need to be redone or repaired.

Total cost of the repair was about $25 for the 2″ ball valve, 1 male connector, 2 female connectors, and some new pvc glue. It took about half an hour since I only had to make 1 cut and the rest glued up easily.
I’ll wait until morning to turn the circuit back on.

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October Pond Conditions
10/3/2011
Fall has begun. Temperatures are beginning to drop but we still have some days in the 70’s.
Air temp mid 40s-70*, water temp 58-60*, PH 8.3
Water is clear with light algae bloom. Have not used any algaefix in last 3 weeks. Barley bale in filter box only. Getting some debris from surrounding trees due to temps and wind. Reducing feeding amount. Fish are still active.

10/11/2011
Getting some cavitation from the skimmer. Refit the piping. Waterbill $21.
PH 8.2. water temp about 68*.
Pond overflowed by Rain. Added algaefix to stop bloom. Barley not working.

10/29/2011
PH 7.8, watertemp 56*-60*, airtemp 38*-60*, Ammonia 0, nitrates 0, nitrites 0.
Added UV sterilizer to fight algae. Still doing weekend filter cleanings and mid week dumps.

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back flow pressure

When I redid my pipes to add a ball valve to my bio filter circuit I removed a check valve. I didn’t think much about it until I shut off the pump the other day to empty its leaf basket. Since my bio filter sits higher than my pump a wave of water came rushing backwards through the pump and leaf basket chamber. I forgot to close the ball valve to prevent this. Fortunately the prefilter sits higher than the biofilter too so it was at least a slow wave. The water also partially went down my jets line and filled the pond. So I need to reinstall the check valve this weekend.

Plan your pond’s plumbing so that water can only flow in the direction you want. Use a combination of check valves, shut off valves, 3 way valves, ball valves, knife valves, gate valves, or whatever else you need to make sure water can not flow back through the system. Remember to have easy access to valves for back flushing, rerouting, temporary closing of circuits, and maintenance.

UPDATE: I put the swing check valve back in place when I added my UV light. I now have 3 ball valves and a 3 way valve that can control flow back from the filter for drainage purposes but the check valve keeps it from coming back to the pump.

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Simple expandable mechanical filter

In seraching for a basic mechanical filter I keep seeing water garden filters that might work for a koi pond but their openings are too small or they are too small to handle the 3600GPH flow I am circulating. So I finally have put together a drawing of what I would like.

I want a multistage combo filter that can be adjusted as needed. Sections could be filled with media or left empty to add/reduce filtration as needed. My proposal is a pressurized pump fed multi-section 18″ diameter tube that has large port openings 2″ or larger and allows the owner to determine quality of filtration and frequency of cleaning by choice of media.

Water enters a bottom vortex settlement chamber with a conical screen to keep out large debris. Centrifugal forces would send heavier debris to the edges where it could fall to the bottom. Screen openings should be no more than 1/16 inch. The bottom section should have a pressure gauge port.

A second stage would screw on or be clamped on and contain a coarse foam filter media or perhaps bag of beads/media. A third stage containing finer foam media would be attached to act as fine particle capture. If desired, additional bio sections could be added for foam, mat, carbon, ammonia rocks, etc. Each stage would need a support screen for the media. And finally a top section which acts as the outflow chamber. The top section could also be fitted with pressure gauges, air ports, or possibly even a UV assembly. Openings between sections should be no less than 14 inches to allow maximum water movement even as filter layers get dirty.

Maintenance:
Daily/Frequent maintenance would require dumping the water from the bottom section to remove solids. This could be done while pump is on or off. Depending on fish load and other debris the foam sections would need weekly to monthly cleaning. IF foam sections are too fine cleaning will be more frequent. The conical screen should be easily removable for cleaning with a stiff nylon brush. Simplicity in disassembling and reassembling the system parts would be the key to making this maintenance friendly. Since the foam sections are intended as mechanical filtration rather than biological filtration, cleaning them with a hose would be OK.

Materials
The tube could be made of thick molded plastic, PVC, acrylic, or fiberglass. Stainless steel or aluminum could also be used but would increase the cost. Transparent sections would be really cool and let the owner see the dirt buildup. Material chosen would probably depend on how sections are joined. A base system would be sold with bottom section, 2 foam filter units, and the top section. Making it modular would allow owners to expand their system over time and refine their filtration. Additional add on items would be pressure gauge kits, aeration port kits, and replacement screens and media.

Hopefully there is a pond products engineer out there than can take my idea and make it work. The main challenge will be how to join the multiple sections without leakage. Perhaps some mechanism that works like a PVC Union does so each section has a threaded edge and an outer ring can screw down over the threads.

Other Possibilities:
The outer case does not have to be modular but merely has a removable top. There could be an insert into the main tube which is removable and configurable. Think of it like a strainer basket in a leaf trap, on a larger scale, and with layers. The design could possibly be reduced to 12″ diameter.

The other thing no one apparently has thought of is a large sock filter container, or perhaps it would clog too easily. Emperor Aquatics has one but it is only about 5″ in diameter and has 1.5″ openings. I want it bigger! 12″ diameter with 2″ports or larger with an easy to remove top and rinse-able/replaceable sock. This would be ideal once you have no algae and a relatively clean pond.I may try adding the sock to my Bio filter where water comes in.

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Centrifugal Separator Filters

I came across some interesting sites the last few days regarding centrifugal filters. These filters spin the water in a tube which throws the solids to the outer walls at high speed and downward to lower pressure collection areas at the bottom of the device. Clean(er) water passes through a central screen filter and out the top. Some use perforated stacked discs instead of a screen. The filters are cleaned by releasing a valve at the bottom while under pressure. Some have a reverse flow mechanism to clean the screening filter more efficiently. They are similar to a vortex settlement filter but smaller and faster.

I wonder if these would be adequate for pond use or would the fast spinning merely chop up the pond waste and let it continue on to other filters? Even if it removed 50% of solids, that would improve UV sterilization performance. However, would algae merely block up the filter rendering it useless?
Generally these filters are used to separate heavy solids like sand, or are used where water is mostly pre cleaned like irrigation lines. There are some industrial uses. I could see them being used for aquariums.

My favorite of these filters (so far) is the Lakos twistIIclean filter which has a simple method for back flushing the screen filter. Price on these filters is much cheaper than large bead filters and space requirements are much smaller. Maintenance would likely require daily flushing until pond particulates are reduced. A pond system might require a couple of units in series with progressively finer mesh screens to be efficient. There is a significant price difference between the 1.5″ unit and 2″ unit (inlet/outlet size) so two 1.5 units may divide the work more evenly and work better.

I wrote to the Lakos company to learn more. I will share their response when received. Other similar items include the RUSCO filters, Thompson Filters, and swaeco centrifugal filters. These have far more active water movement than my Waterco multicyclone prefilter.

My Theoretical Application
I have a 60GPM (3600 GPH) pump and 2″ pipe leaving the pump to the multicyclone. I would likely use two 1.5 inch filters in parallel after the multicyclone. The theoretical max flow on 1.5 inch pipe is 42GPM but I am sure there must be some head loss in this filter so even if reduced down to 30GPM that is still quite fast. 2 Units would likely balance out at slightly less. My pond has a light fish load but being under a large tree I get lots of debris both large and small.

UPDATE: As suspected, the company implied that the filter would have a problem with algae build up on the screen. Since algae will grow on both sides of the screen then it will reduce the flow and require regular maintenance. Even back flush systems would not be able to clean the algae off effectively so removal would be required.

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Rotary Drum Filtration

In my usual web surfing I came across a couple of discussions about Rotary Drum filters. A RDF is primarily a mechanical filter that uses a rotating screen to remove small and large particles from the water as it passes through the screen. Water is pumped to the center of a screened drum and debris sticks to the screen. As the drum rotates it passes over a waterjet which cleans the screen and knocks the sludge/debris into a tray that then drains out of the filter. The filtered water passes through the screen onto then next filter via gravity flow.

The RDF will usually have a sensing device that can tell when the screen is full and will start the rotation automatically. There is very minimal water loss and the debris is removed from the water column so it doesn’t contribute to ammonia build up. Due to all the moving parts, motors, sensors, and fine screens the RDF units are very expensive, $2500+ (USD). While they drastically reduce maintenance on the pond, the units themselves require some maintenance. Some people have created DIY versions of them but I have yet to see one with all the automated functions of the commercial models.

This is one of those items that is a nice to have, and if you are mechanically inclined would be an easy addition to any pond setup. RDFs work far more efficiently than other screen methods and can be sized to meet large water flows. If you have the budget, do the research and find units that meet your need.

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Atlanta Koi Show 2011

I visited the Atlanta Koi show this weekend. The fish to be judged were mostly large ones. A few were under 2 feet, but I saw only 1 or 2 that were really attractive fish. The goldfish category was much more colorful and interesting. The vendors had a few nice fish for sale but looked to be mostly domestic. Tarheel Koi had the best overall pricing and fish selection. A vendor selling Ogata Koi had a nice 10″ Shiro Utsuri for $200 I nearly purchased but I can visit my friend in Dalonega for similar fish for less. Several vendors were selling various foods but no-one was carrying the Hikari brand. Artist Dale Whaley was there and her works are even nicer in person.

Overall I felt the show was small. It would have been better if there were more entrants and more vendors. I understand the minimal vendors with the economy.

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Koi and Pond Art

I ran across the vendor list for the Atlanta Koi Show for 2010 and this entrant caught my eye: Whaley’s Fish Lips. So I checked out the artist site and saw some very nice drawings of Koi and Pond life. My favorite is the drawing of a heron with a hunting target painted over the image. Now that is predator control. Here are a couple of examples from the site, but I recommend you click the link above to see the rest of Dale Whaley’s work.

Art work of Dale WhaleyDoitsu, Dale Whaley. www.whaleysfishlips.com
Images used by permission from the artist.

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